Hurtigruten - Norwegian Coastline Cruise
Sunday, July 20, 2025
All packed and ready to go. Our final breakfast (always amazing) at our hotel in Kirkenes. Jim went for a bit of a wander and was not quite back when the bus to take us to the Hurtigruten arrived. I flagged him down across the street and we got on board the bus.
The Hurtigruten is a company that operates cargo/passenger ships that ply the west coast of Norway. It is a five day journey from the northern port, Kirkenes, to the southern port, Bergen, travelling over 4600 kilometers. It stops at over 30 communities on the way to deliver cargo and to pick up and drop off passengers. The company has been in business since 1893 and currently a ship leaves from Kirkenes (going south) and from Bergen (going north) five days a week. The Hurtigruten company is considered one of the major factors in the development of Norway. The terrain is so rugged and the fiords are so long that building roads or railways is still very difficult. To drive from Kirkenes to Bergen involves going through both Finland and Sweden. So the ships are the primary contact from one community to the next.
We watched our ship (Kong Harold) sail into the harbour. About an hour later, we were aboard and ready to head south (although, in truth, you have to sail quite far north before the ship actually heads south).
The sea today has been as smooth as glass. We have settled into our cabin and explored many parts of the ship. We know where the presentations are held (several every day); we know where we eat our meals (group 2, table 10); we know where to get the best coffee and where to find a fine drink. We have met many people, friendly and chatty by nature.
At most ports, there is an excursion of one sort or another. The key to a successful excursion is making it back to the ship on time. At some ports, passengers are encouraged to explore the communities independently (that feels a little risky to me but not to Jim so then I worry about him).
We stopped in Vardo and passengers were given the option of leaving the ship and visiting a fort and a museum devoted to women and a few men who were accused of being witches and burned at the stake. A museum and a memorial have been erected in their honour.
The landscape is spectacular. High rock walls line the fiords. They look like someone has sliced the sides off. Green moss, granite rockfaces and some red highlights provide variation in colour and texture. In one port, there is still substantial snow in the sheltered areas, places that even the midnight sun has not reached.
Wind turbines are visible atop the cliffs. Energy conservation is a priority in Norway. The ship we are travelling on is a hybrid, using electricity to power the ship and reducing energy use by over 15%.
It's now 10:30 pm. The sun is still high in the sky. But it is time for bed. One last event for this day ... we just passed the Hurtigruten ship heading north. The horns on both ships bellowed greetings as we pulled into the port it had just left.
Monday, July 21, 2025
It was a quiet morning on the Hurtigruten. We continued to ply the waters on an amazingly calm sea. Sometimes, thick fog got in the way of spectacular scenery as we continue to travel through narrow fiords, often flanked on both sides by rugged mountains.
It is interesting to look at the long west coast of Norway. We began this journey in Kirkenes and in order to go south, we actually have to go further north in order to go south. Our destination is Bergen.
Breakfast is the first thing on the agenda each morning (that is, after Jim has his first cup of coffee). Served in a large and comfortable dining room, the breakfast buffet is quite an elaborate spread of food. Five long counters are all covered with various items: ranging from fish (at least 8 varieties); cheese (5 varieties); cereals and condiments (dried fruit and nuts and three kinds of yogurt); bread (at least 6 kinds) and crackers (about 10 kinds); eggs (4 varieties) and bacon, sausage and other hot meats; cold meats (several varieties); fresh fruit, both cut up and whole; smoothies and juices; and coffee and tea. It is virtually impossible not to find something that appeals.
Shortly after breakfast, we docked at a town called Hammerfest. Jim and I had signed up for a bus tour of the town. We were only stopped there for an hour so it was a fast and informative tour. Our guide conducted the tour in both English and German and she did a great job, always speaking quickly.
Hammerfest is the furthest north town in the world. There were several criteria in place to earn that status - date of estabishment, size of population, financial stability. There is another nearby community, Honningsvag that also claims this status but it does not have sufficient population to be considered a town. It is a village.
Hammerfest is noted for a variety of things. First of all, it was occupied by the Germans throughout WWll and when it became clear the Germans were being overrun, they burned the entire town to the ground. So all buildings in Hammerfest have been built since 1944.
There is a Sami population in Hammerfest who maintain their culture with grass buildings,
pole tp's, traditional clothing and reindeer hunting. Reindeer are a significant problem in this town as they are large in number and have, at times, occupied the town. The townspeople have declared war on the reindeer and built a fence that surrounds the entire community to keep them out. But the reindeer still find their way in. Gardens are ravaged and reindeer deposits are left behind as the animals move on. It is an ongoing battle.
One of the most innovative undertakings in Hammerfest is the natural gas processing station. Gas deposits have been found on the sea floor in a variety of locations. The gas is pumped to the processing station through underwater pipelines. When the gas arrives at the station, it is compressed and stored. When enough gas to fill a tanker ship has been accumulated, a tanker ship is filled and quickly moves away from the town, lest an explosion occur.
Perhaps, the most significant historical event in Hammerfest is the measurement of the earth's circumference. This was undertaken by Friedrich Georg Wilhelm von Struve between the years 1816 to 1855, using surveys and trigonometry for the measurements. Compared to more recent and complex measurement equipment, it was found that he was less than 223 metres out in the radius and 700 metres in the circumference. Quite amazing!! There is a statue to commemorate this scientific undertaking.
As we travelled through Hammerfest, we were aware of fencing high on the mountainsides. These fences are in place to provide protection to the town from falling rocks, landslides and avalanches. According to our guide, these fences are more effective than the reindeer fence.
We quickly visited a very interesting museum but barely had time to take in many of the exhibits as we had to return to the ship in time for departure. If nothing else, the Hurtigruten is punctual.
I spent the remainder of the day working on the blog, organizing photos and taking more photos as we sailed past towns and farms and mountains and fog. Sitting by a window was a great way to watch the scenery and still collect our memories in word and photo.
We had a special king crab dinner, sharing the table and the crab with four people from Western Australia. Of course, we found many topics of conversation and thoroughly enjoyed their company along with the crab and the wine. It was a delightful evening and I expect we will all eat together again but the menu will not be crab. Our group ate the last two king crabs on the ship.
Tuesday, July 22, 2025
As described yesterday, our breakfast was plentiful and delicious. Right after breakfast, there was a presentation on the front deck. We were travelling through a man-made trough in an area where the sea is very shallow. Special markers show captains where it is safe to guide their ships. The trough is 7 metres wide, 10 metres deep and 5 kilometres long. And it has to be dredged regularly to ensure that it remains viable for ships to pass through. The soil that was removed from the original construction of the trough was dumped back into the sea at quite a distance from the trough. There was enough soil removed that two new islands were created. The islands are not occupied by humans but the birds seem to love them. Sea eagles, puffins, sea gulls and other water birds have made their homes there. Sadly, this morning it was too foggy to capture any photos.
The rest of the day was quiet. No matter when you look out a window there is either calm water or magnificent mountains if we are close to shore.
We are amazed at the amount of snow that still lies on the top or in the shadows of the mountains. Given that there is 24 hour sunlight, it seems incredulous that the snow has not all melted. In spite of the sunlight, however, the temperatures can be quite low. Not today though ... it has reached 29C and feels quite hot. And we are still north of the Arctic Circle.
I wrote this blog, organized photos, watched the scenery, attended a lecture and read some of my book. We spent some time chatting with crew and fellow passengers and had a little time with our new Australian friends. They are very busy. They have signed up for every activity and expedition that has been offered. Clearly, they are younger and more active than we are. Jim did take a couple of walks into the communities when we were in port. And we checked out Deck 7, a comfortable lounge area with rocking chairs, great coffee and a view from on top of the ship. There is a beautiful outside deck on that level with comfy chairs and great views.
Whale spotting was a great activity shortly after dinner. Crew announced the presence and location of the orcas but we were too slow to get there to actually see them. That was disappointing.
Dinner was buffet style tonight. Usually it is table service. The array of food was amazing, including several kinds of meat and fish, lots of salads, vegetables, cheeses, breads, crackers and incredible desserts. It is difficult not to overindulge. I am happy to report that I have managed to maintain my weight loss all through this trip. Not the easiest thing to do!!
We returned to our cabin early tonight, wanting to be well rested for tomorrow. The big event that awaits us is that we will cross the Arctic Circle in the morning. This is a well planned and well paced journey. There will be a ceremony and a celebration. It is hard to believe that we have been on the sea for three full days and nights and are still this far north. The earth is big!
Wednesday, July 23, 2025
We awoke this morning to a glassy sea and incredible mountains, so close it felt like we could reach out and touch them. Norway certainly has more than its fair share of ruggedness. When we boarded the ship, we attended a welcome session in which the crew talked about wave size and seasickness among other things. Although the sea was calm at the time, they were quite sure it was not going to stay that way. But, remarkably, it has and we are enjoying every moment of this smooth voyage.
At approximately 10:30 this morning (Norway time), we crossed the Arctic Circle. Finally, we have left the north behind. Who would have guessed the 'north' is that large? The exact location of the Arctic Circle is 66°33′45.9″. There was a great cheer and celebration on the top deck along with a shared beverage for all who dared taste it. Of course, Jim and I joined in and shared a spoonful. In spite of its Norwegian name, it turned out to be cod liver oil which, like me, many of you may recall having that as a child. There was lots of laughter among the passengers when we realized what it was. But everyone who tasted it received a commemorative spoon with the Hurtigruten logo on it. I personally thought it was funny because I have just finished reading a novel called "The Spoon Stealer". The protagonist would have loved this spoon.
I went 'shopping' after the ceremony and selected a beautiful Norwegian sweater to bring home. Norwegian colours (red, white and blue) and design. I also bought a pair of earrings to go with it. My souvenirs, so to speak. It was a lot less expensive when we simply purchased magnets for our refrigerator.
Lunch soon followed and now I am sitting by my favourite window, reading, writing and enjoying the incredible views. The sun is gleaming off the water, rugged islands in the foreground and tall majestic mountains a bit further way. Much of this voyage has been through fiords and passageways as we make our way south. Incredible beauty and wilderness at every turn. Land closest to the sea has been agricultural with bales of hay harvested and wrapped in white plastic to prepare for the winter. Herds of sheep grazing in the pastures. Jim has gone off to the 'daily gathering', a meeting when they cover the activities for the next day. He is also going on a salmon farm tour later this afternoon. I am content to relax right where I am.
We attended a lecture this morning about the topography of Norway and how the fiords were formed. It was a history lesson that started in the earliest Ice Age and continued to the present day as the ice, snow, rain and salt water all impact the shape of the mountains and valleys and rivers below. There are several streams that are gradually developing into rivers due to the impact of global warming on the glaciers on the mountains. As the water surges down the mountainsides, the path widens and transforms into a river. As the shape of the mountain changes, the rocky base is impacted and there are several small communities now that are in danger of destruction due to rockfalls. Alarm systems have been put in place but the warning time can be as short as 5 minutes. Over the years, there have been many road accidents due to boulders falling from the sky. Small rural communities are building new schools above the danger points so their children are safer. After the fact, we learned that our ship travelled through a fiord where a rockfall has the potential to come down at any time into the very water we sailed through. A nervous laugh followed.
The afternoon and evening were quiet. The incredibly smooth water continued to carry our ship towards our destination, Bergen, which we will reach on Friday afternoon. We docked at a couple of ports and Jim went out for walks while I remained onboard. One of the walks was exactly 8 minutes long. That is the timeframe given by the gatekeeper as Jim deboarded. If nothing else, this ship leaves on time. Happily Jim was back before the gangway rose.
We enjoyed an attractive plated dinner, a nice change from buffet style and enjoyed our coffee on Deck 7 with a range of other passengers. Everyone is very friendly and manage to handle language differences with aplomb. Sometimes a warm smile says it all.
Another lovely day has come to an end.
Thursday, July 24, 2025
We landed in Tromso at about 6 am. Jim hopped out of bed and headed for the dock. We had a three hour stop there, ample time to explore the community. I had a more leisurely start to the day including time to read, write and organize my belongings (we leave the ship tomorrow). Breakfast followed and Jim arrived back before the ship departed and before breakfast ended. I really need to learn not to worry about him.
We had a quiet afternoon. Jim had a nap and I relaxed on Deck 4, a lounge area, and chatted with other travellers. After Jim joined me, we spent some time with our new Australian friends. We also proof read the photo books that are completed and found a few little things that need to be tweaked.
Later in the afternoon, we boarded a bus for our final excursion, a dinner and a tour along the Atlantic Road. The day was bright and the adventure held great appeal for us.
Our first stop was at Kvernes 'Stave' Church built in 1633. The church was built using staves, a technique that does not require nails. The rafters sit on the staves without being formally attached. This church has quite a history over its almost 400 years and now contains both Protestant and Catholic artifacts. Some of the altar piece was built in the 1400's.
Our next stop was for dinner, a welcome break from the bus. We were guests at a popular roadhouse and enjoyed a very traditional Norwegian meal, called bacalao. Bacalao is dried and salted cod prepared with tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, olives, and spices made into a flavourful and slightly spicy stew. It is popular in Norway, served with homemade bread and butter. For dessert, we had a lovely creme caramel. We enjoyed the meal and the company of the people sitting beside us.
After dinner, our bus headed for The Atlantic Road. This is a road that was built for the purpose of connecting eight islands to the mainland. One of the many challenges with this road is that each island needed a bridge that was high enough for ocean-going vessels to sail under as these islands formed a barrier to the open sea. The result was that the road was extremely curvy as it made its way from one island to the next and the slopes were steep so that ships could get underneath but the ends of the bridges could all join each island at the shoreline (the islands were all quite tiny). It must have been an engineering nightmare. As passengers on the bus, we were not able to see over the top until we actually crested the hill, a bit like a roller coaster as you go up and up and up and then d o w n! It was quite a ride.
The scenery was lovely in spite of the fact that the sun had disappeared (the first time all week) and we learned a lot about salmon fish farming,
limestone mining, old buildings with sod-covered roofs,
oceanside agriculture and animal life (mostly deer and foxes) in the dense forests that flanked the road. High mountains were on both sides of the road and we travelled through a very agricultural valley. Cattle, sheep and horses were in various fields and crops (barley and wheat) were just beginning to ripen. Hundreds of bales of hay were wrapped in white plastic and stored for the winter.
We travelled through several small villages and wondered how they would survive in such a remote area in the winter. We did not see a single grocery store along the way. And winters are long, dark and snowy.
After a lovely drive we arrived in Molde where we were meeting our ship. It was well past closing time for the stores and businesses but the town had a certain appeal to it. One of the things Molde is known for is its gardens of roses. There were hundreds of roses in various places and they were all in bloom.
More about Bergen and Oslo in the next chapter.
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