County Donegal South to County Kilkenny (with a few diversions en route)
Sunday, June 22, 2025
We spent this morning at our very comfortable B&B. I was updating our blog, working with photos and catching up on email. Jim worked on future plans and accommodations. The weather was variable so it was a good time to catch up on documentation and communication
About noon, we departed with an itinerary in mind – exploring County Donegal, in the northwest part of Ireland. First off, we drive to Killybeggs, Ireland’s largest fishing port.
We drove to the port where we saw a whole fleet of fishing trawlers (at least 25 boats) and a whole row of tanker trucks refuelling fishing boats to be ready for morning.
Slieve League was next, the highest cliffs in Ireland (among highest cliffs in Europe), soaring above Atlantic Ocean 600 metres, almost 2000 feet above the water.
Walking is the standard means of reaching the top, but we were permitted to drive up the steep road (courtesy of handicapped identification). There were hiking trails to take you even higher but can be treacherous when wet and narrow (much higher than cliffs of Moher which we will see in due course). The view from the top overlooking the Atlantic Ocean was breathtaking. So was the wind!!
Next, we went to Malin Beg, also located high above the ocean. From the top we could look over the horseshoe shaped sand beach.
It was very sheltered by high cliffs on all sides with steps all the way down to the beach (174 steps to be exact). The surf was crashing over rocks near the shore, quite beautiful. And, in spite of wind and rain, families were picnicking and going down to beach from the top of the cliff.
Moving on, we set our direction back to Killybegs along a much more leisurely and remote route. We drove along narrow roads up and down high hills with agricultural beautiful scenery, loads of sheep, including on the road, also some goats and a few cattle. We passed over Glengesh Pass high in the mountains, glorious views to be savoured as we made our way along the narrow, curving, hilly roads.
Meeting oncoming traffic was a challenge; everyone slowed and waved a thanks as vehicles passed by one another with inches to spare. The valleys at the bottom were very pretty in the sun. Happily we encountered no rain while we were navigating these roads. As we passed through several tiny hamlets we wondered how and why anyone would live in such remote territory
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Back to Killybegs, we stopped for dinner. Of course, we went to a local restaurant with loads of seafood on the menu. Jim ordered seafood chowder and seafood croustillant (mixed seafood, crab and red prawn, wrapped in kataifi pastry, deepfried and served with prawn and Old Bay bisque. I had a caramelized goat’s cheese salad and pan-fried scallops. (So good!!)
It was a short drive back to B&B. We just made it in the door before the sky opened again. Time for bed!!
Monday, June 23, 2025
Our day began with another delicious breakfast at our B&B near Donegal where we have spent the last two nights. Breakfast today included something I had never tasted before … rhubarb yogurt. Now before you wrinkle your nose, bear with me for a moment. It was smooth, sweet and had a taste of rhubarb sauce as a finisher. It was delicious.
We left Eas Dun Lodge and headed south along a main road toward Ben Bulben,
a large table top mountain just north of Sligo. It was visible for a long way as we drew closer and closer, growing ever larger as we approached it. Ben Bulben was mentioned in W.B. Yeats poetry as he lived in this area.
In fact, our first stop was at Drumcliffe Church
which is the burial place of Yeats and his wife George (yes … George).
Yeats grandfather was the minister at the church. The church was well preserved and beautifully, if simply, decorated inside. A hand painted floor to season mural covered the wall at the front of the church. A lovely cafe and gift shop were available on the site. Drumcliffe Church gained other notoriety as well for engaging in the first occurrence of copyright theft in Ireland, sometime around the sixth century. Monk Columba copied a songbook prepared by another saint, Saint Finnian of Movilla. The monk refused to return the songbook and the High King found Columba guilty of theft. Columba rebelled and a huge battle ensued in which over 3000 men were killed.
Another interesting thing we saw at the church was the opportunity to make a donation by simply tapping your credit card on an electronic device. No need for cash … simply tap.
From Drumcliffe, we drove on to the town of Sligo. Its primary claim to fame was the remains of an abbey that had been originally constructed in 1415.
It had subsequently burned, been rebuilt and was demolished again as its history continued. Now the ruins of the abbey remain as well as some of the grassy areas around it. The walls still rise high above the rest of the town, quite impressive, indeed.
Near the village of Castlebaldwin, County Sligo, we visited the historic Carrowkeel cemetery, beautifully situated in the Bricklieve Mountains.
This megalithic site includes 14 passage cairns, most of which are round in shape and contain limestone slabs. The tombs date from 3200 to 2400 BC. The visitors' centre was closed but the fields where the tombs are located were open for strolling. Very impressive, indeed.
Kildare Abbey was our next stop.
The day got away from us as we travelled from place to place. Our final stop was at Connemara National Park. It is a heavily wooded area with many hiking trails and a highly regarded visitors’ centre. Sadly, we arrived too late to take advantage of the visitor’s centre as it closes at 5:15 pm. Weather permitting we may try to return tomorrow although it is a long drive from our accommodation on this day.
Speaking of weather … it was drizzly and cold all day long. Not a great day at the end of June. No need for summer clothes today.
We travelled through some wonderful rolling countryside today, enjoying the familiar sights of herds of cattle and fields filled with sheep. Abundant wild flowers at the sides of the roads, forests of towering trees and a myriad of house styles from the very old to brand new.
Driving on the left and goIng around roundabouts in the opposite direction are becoming commonplace. Fewer errors and oopsies.
We finally arrived in Galway where we will remain for the next two nights. We decided it would be fun to go to a pub for dinner and hear some live Irish music. A great plan …. But, the pub we had chosen was closed until 7:30 and we also found out they do not serve food.
Cold, wet and disappointed, we turned the car back to our hotel where we enjoyed a meal in the bar area but without the Irish music. Maybe tomorrow night …
Tuesday, June 24, 2025
Our day began with a delicious breakfast at our hotel. A full English breakfast for Jim and granola with yogurt for me. We both fully enjoyed our choices. The coffee was especially good.
Our plan for today was to travel on the HOHO (Hop On Hop Off) bus to explore Galway City. We were in luck as one of the thirteen stops was just around the corner from our hotel. Armed with jackets and cameras we headed out under a dark and ominous sky. We sat upstairs on the bus but under cover of the roof. A good choice because it was not long before it began to rain in earnest.
We were still able to enjoy the tour of the town. We visited various
neighbourhoods in Galway – the cathedral; the Diving Tower (more on that later); the Corrib River, fastest flowing river in Europe (impressive speed); Eyre Square (centre of town),
several schools and universities (St. Mary’s and U of Galway), colourful rowhouses;
a very wealthy suburb; the impressive Galway Golf Course adjacent to the ocean, crowded even in the rain.
We disembarked from the bus at the Circle of Life Garden, across the street from our hotel. This beautiful garden is dedicated to all those who have been organ donors. It is quiet, peaceful, filled with flourishing plants and flowers. Even in the rain, there were several people strolling on the paths. The tone was very quiet and contemplative.
Galway is known for festivals, especially in summer. There is rarely a week that goes by without a festival in town. June is a bit early so we will not be able to partake in any of them. It sounds like a lively and fun place to spend some time.
We returned to our room to wait out the rain. I had a short nap and then worked on our new photo book while Jim continued to plan for the rest of today and tomorrow. What a guy!!
As the afternoon wore on the weather improved. The sky was clear blue again. No one would have guessed about the rain that fell earlier. We headed out to visit a Celtic Wild Flower Garden just outside the city. On the way, we passed the famous diving tower built off a pier so divers could dive right into the ocean. We were amazed at how many swimmers were actually in the ocean. The water would be sooooo cold. But there is a movement here called Wild Swimming, challenging people to swim in places that most of us would consider crazy. And thus, a large number of people were swimming near the diving tower, although we did not see anyone actually diving.
The Celtic Wild Flower garden was beautiful.
It was set among a circle of stones put in place many hundreds of years ago. The garden owner has planted thousands of wild flowers in areas adjacent to the stones. She has also developed pathways as well as signposts describing the Celtic traditions and the reasons that certain plants are placed as they are. We were sorry we did not have more time to spend there and chat with the lady who had the vision. But it was almost closing time when we arrived and she was generous in allowing us a few extra minutes before she closed for the day.
Back to the city, we found a local pub for dinner and eagerly ordered Irish dishes …. Ostara stout stew and a leafy salad with hummus. Well, maybe the salad was not Irish but it was good. We shared both dishes, enough food to satisfy both of us. From there, we moved on to O’Connors, a well known local pub that features live music on Tuesday evenings.
We waited in line and were among the first into the cluttered pub. We asked the musicians where we should sit for the best sound and view and they offered the table right next to them. Once the music started it was a very lively place. People kept pouring in and soon there was standing room only. The beverages included several Irish beers as well as whiskey based mixed drinks. Jim enjoyed his Jack Rabbit Ginger Beer
and Smithwicks Ale topped with Guiness. I had a whiskey sour, a new drink for me, which I enjoyed very much.
And now, we are back in our hotel room, readying ourselves to leave in the morning and head on to our next destination, a village called Doolin.
Wednesday, June 25, 2025
We left Galway early this morning. On our way out, we stopped at the
Diving Tower and, indeed, there were Wild swimmers in the water.
What we had heard about the trend in swimming in Galway was apparently true. I can only imagine how cold the water must have been.
Our route this morning included winding roads, agricultural scenery, sheep, cattle, and extraordinary rocks everywhere.
In spite of the treacherous curves and turns along the narrow roads, there was a surprising amount of traffic and some very tricky driving, especially in the narrow parts.
We drove to Caher Connell Stone Fort, a spectacular medieval stone ring fort which was inhabited from 600 to 1600 ( yes - one thousand years)! The diameter of the fort was 42 metres with walls that were three meters thick and up to three meters high, all built from stones in the area.
Next stop was the Poul Nabrone Dolmen, a large portable tomb created with 3 standing portal stones supporting a heavy horizontal capstone. It dates from about 3500 BC (6000 years old), the best known Dolmen in Ireland, sitting in the Burren, in one of the most desolate and highest points of the Burren.
More about the Burren a bit later.
Next we stopped at a perfumery.
All sorts of perfumes, soaps, and lotions were created from unique plantlife in the Burren. Some of the plants are only found in the Burren. The staff collect flowers and create the essences for the products.
Sometimes it takes hundreds of blossoms to create tiny portions of a particular essence, painstaking work, to be sure. It was a beautiful facility complete with a short movie about the Burren and its plantlife. Clean bathrooms, too - always a treat.
Continuing on our journey, we next stopped at the Burren Visitors Centre. It was spectacular, carefully designed to enable the visitors to better understand what the Burren is. Photos on captions were carefully displayed to explain what the Burren is – simply limestone scraped by glaciers was how it was formed. It is a karst landscape of bedrock incorporating a vast cracked pavement of glacial-era limestone, with cliffs and caves, fossils, rock formations and archaeological sites. In spite of its apparent barrenness, the Burren supports both wildlife and plantlife, some species specifically unique to this Burren. On first view, it appears barren but if you look closer you can see life. Fascinating!!
We stopped at the Roadside Tavern, home to The Burren Microbrewery which produces Burren Black (stout), Burren Red (ale), and Burren Gold (lager). It was established 1865 and is one of the finest pubs on the Wild Atlantic Way. They also have a smokehouse (Burren Smokehouse). It was gorgeous but it was not time for us to stop yet so we continued on.
The Cliffs of Moher were next on our journey. They are part of the Burren. The weather had deteriorated throughout the day and had become quite miserable – cold, wet, windy. It was a long way from parking lot up the steep slope to see the cliffs. We happily accepted a ride to the top in a golf cart. The views were spectacular, high, high cliffs with wild waves crashing at the base. But we did not stay long due to the weather. We waited inside O’Brien’s tower, already wet to the core until a cart came to take us back down the hill.
The Visitors Centre, built into the cliffs, was architecturally spectacular and the displays were superb. We enjoyed browsing there was quite a long while.
The rain, fog, wind were constant yet the sun kept threatening to emerge but it never came through. If you do not like the weather, wait 5 minutes. It is quite changeable
We stayed in nearby Doolin for the night and ate dinner at Gus O’Connors Famous Pub. It was jam-packed and served delicious food Order at the bar and give them your table number. Our was number 81 which gives you some sense of how large this pub is. Live music started at 9 pm but we were simpy too tired to stay, probably a poor decision but we needed the sleep.
Thursday, June 26, 2025
Happy Birthday to my sister, Debbie.
We woke up refreshed … and the sun was shining!!
Our hotel in Doolin served a large delicious and interesting breakfast – eggs to order, fresh pastries, rhubarb jam, yogurt with fruit and a smoothie. To say we ate well is an understatement. There was ceretainly no need for lunch.
Since the sun was shining, we returned to the Cliffs of Moher to see these amazing cliffs under the sun. The wind was wild and so were the seas. Huge breakers crashed into the cliffs creating amazing spray. It was wonderful to see.
We were very happy that we had spent time in the Visitor Centre last night as we wanted to get on the road this morning.
It was a day for castles – old ruins of castles to be more precise. First we drove along winding roads to find Bunretty Castle accompanied by a folk village.
It was remarkable to know that people lived in these castles hundreds of years ago, defending their territory and hunting for food. Next we stopped at King John’s Castle and the Bishop’s Palace.
Both had been quite splendid in their time. Now, the ruins tell of a tale of vacancy and disrepair. The country roads were delightful, narrow, winding pathways across the land. It was easy to imagine that they began as walking trails, broadened to provide for horses, then carts and finally cars. What a history they could tell.
We continued on our journey to the town of Adair. We saw Adair Manor as we entered the town. We turned in and stopped at the entry gates. A very polished gentleman came out of the gatehouse, complete with long tails and a top hat. He asked if we were checking in today. We spoke honestly and said that we were not checking but wanted to take a few pictures. He politely but clearly told us that the grounds were private unless we were staying there and that the best way to proceed back to the road was to do a short U-turn and exit through the gates just as we had entered. There was clearly no room for argument so we meekly left the Manor.
Adair Village was a delightful place with loads of colourful homes, beautiful gardens, and quaint shops in the main part of town. Clearly a tourist destination, Adair was host to a throng of people and the cars that had brought them there. We drove through town, stopping when we could to take photos of historic homes, abbeys, schools and churches. What wealth in this city.
Alas, soon after it began to rain. What we have learned about Ireland is that it is described as ‘green’ because it rains every day, feeding the gardens and fields with life giving moisture. And so we continued with the windshield wipers ensuring a clear path ahead.
Our next destination was the Flying Boat Museum in the town of Foynes. It had been a recommended stop by to friends so we were looking forward to exploring it. The museum is based on airplanes that flew across the Atlantic from North America to Ireland. They began their journey in the northeast USA, stopping for refuelling in Newfoundland and heading across the North Atlantic to land in Foynes on the west coast of Ireland. The landing was what made these plans so unique. They were all fitted out with a hull that would literally ‘float the boat’ if it needed to land on the water. Adjacent to Foynes, there is a long protected inlet from the ocean which is where the flying boats did land when they arrived in Ireland.
Although the museum is open every day until 6 pm, there was one day this year that it closed early due to a special event that was scheduled. Of course, that one day was the day that we arrived. The museum had closed at 3 pm and we did not arrive until 4 pm. A bagpiper met us outside the door. He was going to pipe the 200 visitors including several dignitaries into the museum. He tried to open the door for us, but it was locked up tight as the staff inside were preparing for the event. Disappointed, we took some photos of a couple of planes on display outside and continued on our way.
Our final stop for the day was the town of Killarney where we will be staying for two nights. New adventures await us and we will enjoy being in the same place for two nights in a row. We enjoyed a lovely dinner in the hotel pub and are now relaxing in our room for the evening.
Friday, June 27, 2025
Today was our day to drive around the Ring of Kerry. Up to this point, the weather has been chilly but reasonably dry with a good portion of each day under sunshine, although at some point it has rained each day.
Today was different right from the outset. First of all, it was downright chilly, enough so that we turned some heat on in the car. Secondly, there was a dense cloud cover in every direction and it rained off and on throughout the day. Not just drippy rain but at times there were extended downpours. It certainly was not starting in a way that would make this day brilliant and wonderful.
Nonetheless, we persisted and started with the first stop on our daylong journey. We entered the Killarney National Park and headed for the Muckross House, a well preserved historical home that has been preserved and furnished in rue Victorian style. We almost did not make it to the house. In navigating the roads, I needed to make a right turn but the traffic signals confused me and instead, I turned left, right into the lane of oncoming traffic. A near disastrous way to start our day. Traffic in all directions stopped and I managed to move into the current lane going the correct direction. To say it shook me up a bit is an understatement. Jim, wisely, remained silent while I worked out how to wend our way to where we needed to be.
After a few deep breaths, we continued our short drive to Muckross House and found a perfect parking spot. Time to explore the house and the grounds.
This enormous house was built between 1839 and 1843 as a family home by Henry Arthur Herbert and his wife. Many years later (1932), it was donated to the government of Ireland as a centrepiece for the creation of Killarney National Park. It has 65 rooms and 62 chimneys. Queen Victoria visited this home in 1861. It is furnished with period furniture to reflect the time of her visit to the home.
Guides were available in every room to share extensive knowledge of the house and its contents. Did you know that children in that era had a separate staircase to enable them not to be heard or seen? Imagine!!
The gardens that surrounded the house were well tended and beautiful.
From Muckross House, we set out on a drive through the National Park. The road took an inland path through the deep woods of the national park. Once we got to Kenmare, the road then followed the shoreline of the Kerry Peninsula with periodic views of the Atlantic Ocean. We have to imagine what that might have looked as the area was fully embraced by deep fog for a long period of time. We stopped at several lookouts and even took photos, mainly as a joke, since we were not able to see the shore or the water for most of the day.
Once out of the park, the day improved somewhat. There were still stretches of fog but we were able to see the water and overlook the rugged landscape as we travelled along. It was extremely windy and unpleasant outside the car. Even the sheep and cattle in the fields were huddled together to stay warm.
We passed through two delightful towns
We stopped for lunch in Glenbeigh at a small but delightful café, complete with indoor seating. All the tables were filled when we arrived but a kind German couple invited us to join them. This led to a delightful conversation ranging from politics to travel to sharing information about the German heritage in Kitchener. They were fascinated when we described the size and scope of our own Oktoberfest.
Finally, we fought our way through the wind to our car and set off down the road again. The sky had cleared somewhat and the rain had mostly stopped so at least we were able to see more of the countryside as we travelled along. High and rocky hills dominated the landscape with slopes that reached all the way down to the seashore. Several substantial waterfalls gushed from the hillsides as the water cascaded to the sea. Again, cattle and sheep dominated the terrain although we did manage to see a small herd of red deer, native to Ireland, along the way.
Several hours after we had embarked on what was supposed to be a beautiful outing, we arrived back at our hotel, grateful to be in where it was warm and dry. A nap was certainly in order before heading out for dinner.
Dinner was a wonderful way to end the day – delicious and ample servings of unique appetizers preceded the main course (we shared lamb stew wrapped in a potato pancake) and enjoyed crème brulee and bread and butter pudding for dessert. We enjoyed wine and a beer as well.
Now we are back at our hotel, in for the night. Tomorrow we head to Kilkenny for the next two days.
Saturday, June 28, 2025
We woke up in Killarney and immediately after breakfast pointed out car south. It is hard to believe that we have almost circumnavigated the entire island of Ireland.
Our first stop today was the Glen of Aherlow, a valley between two sets of mountains, Galtee Mountains and the Slievenamuc Ridge. The Galtee Mountains form the highest inland mountain range in Ireland. The highest peak is over 3000 feet. Between the Galtees and the Slievenamuc Ridge lies a quiet country valley filled with breathtaking scenery, rich agricultural land, several small villages, well used walking trails, and many tree canopied roads.
Next we stopped at the Rock of Cashel in County Tipperary (never did get to the village of Tipperary although I was the song much of the day).
It is sometimes called St. Patrick’s Rock and is one of the most visited sites in Ireland. The crowd today was evidence of that. There remain a spectacular group of medieval buildings set on a rocky outcrop of limestone looming over the town of Cashel. It was a great place for defence with visibility in every direction high above the plains. Of note, the 12th century round tower and the 13th century Gothic cathedral afford wonderful views of the countryside from this lofty location This site is described as one of the most remarkable collections of Celtic art and Medieval architecture anywhere in Europe.
Next, we made our way along country roads and finally a multi-laned motorway to Waterford where we went on a tour of the House of Waterford. We watched an introductory film and then were taken into the factory where we watched the artisans at work, each one with a specific role in creating the amazing pieces of crystal. Each piece of crystal that leaves the factory has been individually created, processed through many phases. It was fascinating to see the overall process. Waterford crystal was, of course, available for purchase in an impressive showroom. The prices were just a bit beyond our means. We left empty-handed. As a friend had told us, at the end, the tour empties out into the showroom where you are expected to mortgage the house to buy some crystal. We certainly have fuller understanding of why Waterford pieces are so highly priced and valued.
Back on the highway, heading for Kilkenny, our home base for the next two days. A well equipped hotel, inviting restaurant and hopefully a comfortable bed which we will soon find out.
I'd like to try stew wrapped in a potato pancake.
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